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Posts from the ‘Israel’ Category

Nov 1

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about Nazareth, Israel to Wadi Musa (Petra), Jordan…

Wadi Musaha.

trip: Nazareth to Wadi Musa
how: by Avis rental car or the Peugeot 206 master, shared taxi, and mini-bus.
miles total:  5458
days: 1

The trip from Nazareth to Jerusalem went fine. When we got to Jerusalem, went through the old-city souq to find some last minute gifts, then headed for the best falafel in Jerusalem. After this we headed to the bus (FYI the bus to the border is double the price of coming to Jerusalem, around 33 NIS). We reached the border and crossed through without any problems, then headed to Amman.

I knew going into this trip that my rights as a woman may not be as expansive as they are in Europe and the US. Actually, it was evident that I had lost many of my rights as a woman when I traveled through some of these countries in the Middle East. I had many experiences feeling already that made me feel much lower than the men around me. Just little things like never seeing women in the streets, cafes, shops during the day, never seeing them drive, smoke, talk to other men, having separate elevators for men and women, not being able to sit next to a man on a bus, boat, or train. These are just a few, but my most recognizable experience was in Amman when we were waiting for the bus to Petra.

After making it to Amman for around 3pm we were scared that we had missed the last bus down to Petra. However, at the Jordan border we met a nice Jordanian police officer who negotiated a price with the taxi driver and assured us that we would be there in time and not to let the ‘bastard taxi drivers’ charge us any more than what we settled on. We didn’t. We got to the mini-bus station in Amman and there were about four guys at the bus stop and they told us that there was one bus going to Petra in some minutes. After an hour and a half later we saw the bus arriving… but suddenly there was about 35 people that came from all over the bus station certain they were getting on this bus too. I was just as certain. I looked at G and gave him my bag and told him that there was no way we weren’t getting to Petra tonight. I gave him my bags and fought my way through the crowd of people pushing to get on the bus. When I got on there was one seat left with a bag on it, next to an Arab man. I didn’t even think twice before I looked at the man and asked to sit next to him. Without understanding me he gave me a blank stare and looked behind me at a man who started to look very angry. The situation unfolded something like this:

M: That is my seat ma’am.

ME: You just arrived here sir. I waited for an hour for this bus.

M: I’m sorry that is not my problem. Talk to the driver.

ME: Sir, I waited for this seat and this seat is mine.

M: My bag is on that seat (pointing) you see that it is mine.

ME: Sir, you put your bag through the window. It’s not fair.

M: I’m sorry, talk to the driver.

ME: No sir. This is my seat.

M: (very angry)

People started to talk to him and soon he started to argue with them. Everyone on the bus argued and eventually he got off. I didn’t know what happened until the bus stopped two hours later for a rest stop. At this point, the girl in front of me turned around and said, “I’m sorry you had to have that happen to you. But I am so happy that you stood up for your seat. He didn’t deserve it.” I said, “thank you”. She then continued to tell me that everyone on the bus agreed with me and started to tell him that it wasn’t fair what he did. My heart was still beating fast from the incident (especially because I knew this man had a gun) and I was quiet for the rest of the ride to Wadi Musa (Moses’ Valley, the closest town to Petra).

We stayed at the Valentine Hostel that night and had a lovely buffet dinner then had an early night to prepare for the next day in Petra and on to Wadi Rum.

Exhausted.

L

about Nazareth, Israel to Petra, Jordan and my rights as a woman….
The trip from nazareth to Jerusalem went fine. When we got to jerusalem we went through the old-city souq to find some last minute gifts then headed for the best falafel in Jerusalem then to the bus to the border. FYI, the bus to the border is double the price of coming to Jerusalem (around 33 NIS). We reached the border fine and crossed through without problems, then headed to Amman.
Intermission.
I knew going into this that my rights as a woman may not be as evident as they are in europe and the US. Actually, it was evident that I had lost many of my rights as w oman when I travel through some of these countries in the middle east. I had many experiences feeling a little lower than those men around me. Just little things like never seeing woman in the streets, cafes, shops during the day, never seeing them drive, smoke, talk to other men, having seperate elevators for men and women, not being able to sit next to a man on a bus, boat, or train. These are just a few, but my most recognizable experience was in Amman when we were waiting for the bus to Petra. After making it to Amman for around 3pm we were scared that we had missed the last bus down to Petra. However, at the Jordan border we met a nice Jordanian Police officer who negotiated a price with the taxi driver and assured us that we would be there in time and not to let the ‘bastard taxi drivers’ charge us any more than what we settled on. We didn’t. We got to the mini-bus station in Amman and the there was about 4 guys at the bus stop and they told us that there was one bus going to Petra in just some minutes. After one hour and a half later we saw the bus arriving…. but suddenly there was about 35 people that came from all over the bus station and people that just arrived and everyone was certain they were getting on this bus. I was just as certain too. I looked at G and gave him my bag and told him that there was no way we weren’t getting to Petra tonight. I gave him my bags and fought my way through the crowd of people pushing to get on the bus. When I got on there was one seat left with a bag on it, next to a man dressed in traditional clothing. I didn’t even think twice before I looked at the man and asked to sit next to him. Without understanding me he gave me a blank stare and looked behind me at a man that started to look very angry. The situation unfloded something like this:
that is my seat ma’am.
You just arrived here sir. I waited for an hour for this bus.
im sorry that is not my problem. talk to the driver.
sir, i waited for this seat and this seat is mine.
my bag is on that seat you see that it is mine.
sir you put your bag through the window. it’s not fair.
i’m sorry, talk to the driver.
No sir. This is my seat.
(man, held his gun on his waist)
People started to talk to him and soon he started to argue with them. Everyone one the bus argued and eventually he got off. I didn’t know what happened until the bus stopped two hours later for a rest stop. At this point, the girl in front of me turned around and said, “I’m sorry you had to have that happen to you. But I am so happy that you stood up for your seat. He didn’t deserve it.” I said ‘thank you”. She then continued to tell me that everyone on the bus agreed with me and started to tell him that it wasn’t fair what he did. My heart was still beating fast from the incident and I was quiet for the rest of the ride to Wadi Musa (Moses’ Valley, the closest town to Petra).
We stayed at the Valentine Hostal that night and had a lovely buffet dinner then had an early night to prepare for the next day in Petra and then finding our way to Wadi Rum.
Exhauste

Nov 1

about Tel Aviv, Nazareth, Sea of Galilee and The Golan Heights…

Tel AvivTel Aviv Beach

Church of the AnnunciationFish and Bread Church

trip: Jerusalem to Tel Aviv, Tel Aviv to Nazareth, Nazareth to Sea of Galilee, Back to Jerusalem
how: by Avis rental car or the Peugeot 206 master.
miles total:  5268
days: 3

We woke up the next morning and the four of us headed to Tel Aviv. We arrived shortly after 11am and we immediately went to the beach. It’s a beautiful beach… blue water, blue sky, soft sand, and WARM WARM water. We spent a few hours there, then tried to find a hostel for that night. No luck. It’s fairly expensive in Tel Aviv and we couldn’t find anything reasonable, so we decided to just sleep in the car that night, after all we did have the beach and a shower right in front of us.

Tel Aviv is nice, it’s a city. Western, urbanized, and away from a lot of then troubles you see in Jerusalem and other parts of Israel. However, it doesn’t mean that it isn’t there. It just means it’s not so evident. We walked around the old city, Jaffa, which in 1954, became part of the city of Tel Aviv. Together, they are known as Tel Aviv-Yafo. Then we went back to the beach and spent the late afternoon and evening there… swimming and watching the incredible sunset that night.

Meanwhile we had parked our car in a pain-parking area, but because of Shabbat, we didn’t have to pay. When we returned to the parking lot (after sunset) we were kindly welcomed (not) by an old man. He came over and insisted we pay for the full day of parking, 25 NIS. We told him that this parking was free because of Shabbat. Then he said that we should know nothing is free and we must pay. We again refused and said, we thought that it was free and nobody was controlling it when we came. D said that we weren’t aware of this policy and then he asked where we were from. D said Bulgaria. He then chose to respond with a completely unnecessary phrase, “oh, in Bulgaria you walk across the street and you get shot,  you should be lucky to be here and just pay 25 NIS”. The argument progressed and got ugly. He was throwing accusations right, left and center, saying he would charge us double because in Bulgaria they killed Jews, and that he hates tourists in Israel, continuing to say how much Israel didn’t need any help from anyone and he just wished we would go away. He then started laughing. I kindly asked him to show some respect and stop laughing.  His response, “I can do whatever I want, this is my land.” We got in the car, paid the 25 NIS and left.

We met with a really nice Israeli girl that night, who D knew from when they lived in London together. Had a chill night at the bar.

We left for Nazareth in the morning and got decided to stay at a old nunnery. It was fantastic. In the city center, very clean, hot water, and cheap. We were really excited about the hot shower. 🙂

There isn’t too much to see in Nazareth except for the Church of the Annunciation, which is quite magnificent. We saw this when we first arrived in the morning and then we headed to the Sea of Galilee. This is one of the great things of having a car, especially in this area where public transportation is rare and sometimes nonexistent. There is a lot to see around the Sea and the Golan Heights, biblically speaking. This is where Jesus performed many miracles including feeding fish and bread to 5000 people. It’s a really cool place to be and to visit. Besides the biblical side of things. the Golan Heights area has been subject to many terrorist attacks and fighting, but this time not between the Palestinians and Israelis, but the neighbors to the north, Syria and Lebanon.  The area has been pretty calm since the last outbreak in 2006. The main thing in dispute here is the land, where both Syria and Israel think it is theirs.  You do see some signs for land mines, but for the most part the area around the Sea is quiet for now.

The Golan Heights is a beautiful area, with meadows, hills, trees, and a fantastic view of nature that you don’t find very often in the Middle East. We spent the late afternoon swimming along the eastern shore of the Sea of Galilee. Again, it was like bathwater, but refreshing nonetheless.

We headed back to Nazareth for some showers, rest, and falafel.

It was a quick trip around Israel and definitely I haven’t seen the last of this extraordinary and captivating country.

We are trying to make Nazareth to Petra tomorrow. We will see how that goes. The plan is to head out of Nazareth early in the morning, stop in Jerusalem to return the car, have a falafel close to Jaffa Gate and then catch the bus to the border, cross the border and head to Amman to get a bus down to Petra.

Whew!

L

Oct 26

about Masada and the Dead Sea, Israel…

MasadaDead Sea Mud

trip: Jerusalem to Masada, Masada to the Dead Sea, Dead Sea to Jerusalem
how: by Avis rental car or the Peugeot 206 master.
miles total:  4894
days: 1

We all jumped in the 206 Master early this morning because we wanted to get to Masada (מצודה) before the day got really hot. Well, considering it was 10 am and it was really hot and we were just leaving Jerusalem, I guess it was inevitable. We got to Masada around 11am and  after a short introduction video about the fortress, we caught the cable car up to then decided to hike down.

Masada is perched on top of an isolated mesa about 1300 feet or 400 meters high with a fantastic view of the Dead Sea below. Originally, Masada was a fortress and refuge for Herod the Great. However, the Romans were determined to get in and after many failed attempts at breaching Masada’s walls, the Romans reached Masada only to find that the 960 Jews living inside had committed a mass suicide to escape imprisonment and slavery by the Romans. There were only 6 (this number varies from source to source) survivors who were children and left to tell the story that ‘Masada shall not fall again’.

It was incredible. The views from the top, the fortress, the rooms, the history, and the scenery were spectacular. But it was hot.

We headed back down to the car and started our search for a good beach to rest for the afternoon. We got to Ein Gedi where we went into the hotel area to eat a cheap and tasty buffet (this is basically the only place to buy food around the whole Dead Sea). Then we continued on until we got to Khalil Beach. We soon realized that all the beaches along the Dead Sea are private and we paid about 20 NIS each to get in. Whatever.

Fantastic!! We jumped right in. Actually it’s quite impossible jump in. We first got stuck in the mud on the way to the water and then decided, who doesn’t need a free mud spa with Dead Sea salts. Back home we would pay loads for that kind of stuff and instead I had it right at my fingertips. Actually, I had it all over me. After we lathered up, we slowly dove into Dead Sea. Man. This water is WARM and super sah-weet. You just float. Just hang out… floating…even if you try… you just float. We had a great rest of the day there until we found ourselves slightly disturbed when we realized we were on an Israeli Only beach and the Palestinian beach was right next to us (separated by a fence). We only realized this when a Palestinian happened to cross the imaginary fence in the water and two big guys with massive guns walked over and started yelling. Oh jeeze. Seriously… nobody owns the Dead Sea… it was a sad wake-up call and we soon realized that somethings are impossible to escape.

Look at more pictures on my picasa site.

Tel Aviv tomorrow.

L

Oct 16

about Jerusalem, Israel…

Holy Sepulchre al-Aqsa Mosque

Jerusalem, for me, was like a place you only read about. Not a place you actually go. So waking up the next morning and actually realizing I was in Jerusalem and I was walking the steps of the Bible was surreal. Not only this, but to be in this country and this city where so many people believe to be the holiest place on earth was incredible.

We met up with D and A this morning and also with our other CS friend and wandered around the old city of Jerusalem all day. We saw as much as we could since we don’t have a lot of time here. Starting with the old city, the Western Wall, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the Church of the Redeemer, Tower of David, Tomb of David, Dome of the Rock, Mary’s tomb, Basilica of Agony, Garden of Gethsemane, Mount of Olives and the old city souq. It was interesting, unreal, and extraordinary. It was as if the Bible was unfolding in front of me.

Jerusalem has many many sad stories too. The city has been, like the rest of Israel and Palestine, in constant turmoil. You have consistent reminders of this; armored soldiers, UN vehicles, the wall, and the checkpoints (to name a few). All are reminders that this city, although for a tourist is interesting and enjoyable, is a city that will most likely never be in peace, nor will it’s inhabitants ever be. It’s sad really and as I get talking to the man in the stall I am buying a scarf from I realize that he is Palestinian and he has a special permit to come in to Jerusalem everyday and work. He says to me, ‘but this is where I was born… why I cannot stay here?’ I give him a blank stare. It’s one of the many Palestinians in the next few days that I will have the opportunity to meet and they all ask me the same thing…

It’s a difficult country to be a tourist in. I suppose some tourist just blank out these problems and just see Jerusalem as a ‘cool’ city to visit and party and have a good time, while seeing a synagogue or church or mosque on the way. However, for me I like to see and feel more than a tourist to actually be with the people that live in the place that I am visiting and to understand them. It is quite difficult to do this here. It gets very complicated. It’s easy however to try and avoid these things and then again it’s easy to get wrapped up in these problems. Maybe I am rambling, but I hope that you understand all I want to say is that Jerusalem is whatever you make it to be (like everything in life).

I really enjoyed Jerusalem, the food was incredible (best bagels and falafel!). The city is fascinating and beautiful. The people are interesting, earnest, and heartfelt. In general, it is like a European city, very modern and western, with malls and fast-food, fast cars and lots of money. I suppose Israel is a very wealthy country so why shouldn’t it be like this! I am happy I came here as my first stop in Israel it opened my eyes and I’m excited to discover more about this beautiful and troubled country.

D and A agreed to rent a car with us for the next few days. Tomorrow we will be heading to Hebron and Bethlehem in Palestine. Then we will rent a car the next day and travel to Masada, the Dead Sea, Tel Aviv, Nazareth, Sea of Galilee, and the Golan Heights.

Peace,

L

Oct 16

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about the Jordan-Israel border crossing…

Check-point on the way to JerusalemStar of David on a wall

trip: Amman to Jerusalem
how: by bus and taxi
miles total:  4752
days: 1

Well, we met a nice couple staying at the Farah hotel in Amman with us and found ourselves with more or less the same itinerary from Jordan to Israel and then back to Jordan and onto Egypt. So naturally we thought  of traveling together for a bit especially in Israel where G and I were planning on renting a car.

Adam, Diana, G and I set off around 8 am for the border crossing. We got dropped off at the bus station and were hustled (like usual) on to a bus to the border. The Jordanian border was relatively simple. We got off paid the five dinar exit fee and got back on the bus to the Israeli border. The nerves were coming… the clammy hands…. sweaty arm pits. I don’t know why I was like this, but I heard and read many things about this border crossing and although not many people get turned away, I thought there was always a chance. If this should happen, I don’t know what I would do… I suppose just cry.

We reached the border along with another 600+ people hoping to get through the border that day. The border is like no other border I have seen, with many heavily armed soldiers, not a year older than myself. The Israeli government spends about 15 billion dollars on their defense force annually. Also, it is mandatory for everyone to preform military service, women two years and men three years. I didn’t have too much time to think about this right now and the four of us just tried to follow what everyone else were doing; give the bags to one desk, get a ticket for your bags then lined up for passport check. We all went together.

The female soldier at the counter was no more than 23 years old. She looked at us and asked us the basic questions. We answered. Then we requested that the stamp be put on a separate sheet of paper (we were told this was possible and then we wouldn’t have the Israeli stamp in our passport which would prevent us from travelling to many Arab countries). Her smile quickly disappeared and she asked even more questions. We answered. One Stamp. Two Stamp. Hesitation. Three Stamp. Hesitation. Please wait in the waiting area. No fourth stamp. G had a suspicious passport. In reality, we both did. We were warned that we take a big risk entering into Israel with a Syrian stamp in our passport, but we took the risk. I guess now we would see what happened.

D, A, and I  passed through the first control and got our eyes scanned and picture and fingerprints taken. Then I agreed to meet A and D in Jerusalem tomorrow morning for breakfast and they went on there way while I went back to wait with G in the waiting area. There were many people waiting… mainly Palestinians trying to get in, back to their homes and back to their families. The girls behind the counter calling the names of the people in the waiting area were giggling at the sound of their pronunciation when they said the Arabic names.  I was embarrassed for them and could not see the reason for their lack of respect.

We sat there for some time and listened to the border control calling these names… During this time we met some other travelers, one guy had walked from Belgium to here. He had no money with him and was travelling with just a sleeping bag, walking stick, and a small backpack. He was 22. He was waiting in this area because he had told the border control he was headed for Gaza. Never a smart move.

One hour passed. Then two, three, four, five. I was scared. I didn’t know what to do or what to think. We met another great guy, a Brit. He was doing more or less the same trip we were doing and he was waiting because his father’s grandfather is Pakistani and in return he has a Pakistani last name. We spoke with him for a while and exchanged some travel stories. He had been waiting since 7am. It was now 4 pm. He had been in for 3 interrogations, none of which were delightful meetings. Coming up to 5pm, two men approached him and said that he would be escorted our of Israel back to the Jordan border. That was it. His time in Israel was finished. Tears came to his eyes and we barely had a chance to say good-bye.

My nerves were out of control and Gui was worried sick. All I could do was pray. And I did. G went for an interrogation and came back with no answers. It was about 6:30 and a man came to G and asked where he was from. G said Brazil. The guy looked at him and said one moment. Then 5 minutes later he came out with G’s passport. You can pass through here (directing us through the border control). Why we waited for 7 hours, we may never know. Why we went through the torture of sitting there asking ourselves if we would actually be able to go, we may never know. Why things must be this way, we will never know.

However, what I did know is that this was the start to a whole different experience than the past 17 days.  We went through the border and found our bags after 7 hours of not knowing where they were and hopped on a bus to Jerusalem. We were couchsurfing and couldn’t get to their house soon enough. Unfortunately, we got lost and did not arrive until about 11 pm. Forty-four miles took 15 hours. But we are here. This is what matters.

Feeling strange.

Shalom. שָׁלוֹם

L